Annabel Bolton on The Future Faces of Fashion

Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld or Marc Jacobs’ Louis Vuitton shows can often be edgy, even alternative with their use of tongue-in-cheek and subtle, and not so subtle, sexual connotations. Powerhouses of the high-fashion scene they might be, but diverse in the versatility of models? Most certainly not. With many thinking Cara Delevinge’s eyebrows caused a stir and pushed boundaries.

And with fashion being a often one size fits all industry, anything being a-typical shunned to the very back of the fashion closet, it is easy to see why our two latest favourite models, Melanie Gaydos & Chantelle Winnie, are both leading the way and taking the fashion world by storm.

Alternative modeling is unsurprisingly, a rather small niche in the fashion world, with the alternative culture only being formed in the 1950’s. This unique take on the unforgiving fashion world is one that is rejecting the narrow standards of beauty impressed upon us by the media and celebrates the unique and experimental looks of women across the world.

Melanie Gaydos is one lady who is certainly making her mark on the fashion world. Born with Ectodermal Dysplasia (a genetic disorder that effects your pores, your hair, your teeth, and your nails), and quite a severe form at that, she also battled growing up in an alcoholic family, abuse, and suicidal thoughts, yet today has been labeled  “the ugliest model you’ll ever see”. Melanie unintentionally slipped into the fashion world when asked to work with a fashion photographer, and somewhat admirably fell in love with modeling, and how it made her feel.

Since then, she has continuously been the centre of shoots, building up her experience, while also remaining selective of who she poses for. Any working model will tell you just how hard that is, especially at the beginning of a modeling career. But after all, she doesn’t model to sell clothes, makeup and commercial items like most, she models to create an experience for the audience. Screen Shot 2014-11-28 at 16.45.37

Even if you can’t see the beauty Melanie possesses, you can’t deny her ambition, and determination to be one the future faces of this not so diverse industry. She has also set up the ‘The What’s Underneath Project’, which asks people to take their clothes off to prove “style is not the clothes you wear”.  Maybe it is the shock factor, and some argue that Melanie only can be used once. But with endless job offers rolling in, I beg to differ, and I think this is one lady we will be seeing a lot more in the seasons to come.

Chantelle Winnie, who now goes by the name Winnie Harlow, is only 19 years young, and started her career at the age of 16. Being discovered by a Toronto photographer who encouraged her to give the modelling world a shot. She began posting photos of herself, and her modelling on Instagram, which led to Tyra Banks herself catching notice of her.

She is still unsigned, yet still redefining the typical definition of beauty. Chantelle, who was diagnosed at age 4 with vitiligo, the skin condition that was made infamous by the late Michael Jackson. Some may still argue that she is entering a world that has not quite caught up with modern times in terms of race. With Jourdan Dunn being one of the only models of colour seen in high profile editorials, Chantelle defiantly has one huge mountain to climb in her career.

Cosmopolitan, Access Hollywood, Buzzfeed, The Insider and MTV all agree that Chantelle is the next IT girl. You only have to look once at her recent Vice Magazine shot to see just why this girl is so celebrated, barely noticing she has a skin condition these shots are enough to make any other model in the industry feel competitive.

So with Melanie often being labelled “the ugliest model you’ll ever see”, and Chantelle seemingly having a double battle on her hands, are these ladies going to make a impact in a world where your thighs only have to be a inch too large to be shunned? Well, we certainly think so.

Leave your comments on Annabel’s piece at @AfterNyneHQ 

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Mystery, Wonder & A Match Made In Heaven: Cara & Pharrell For Chanel

Screen Shot 2014-11-28 at 11.51.27For her debut feature for After Nyne, Ria Laskaris explores Chanel’s latest campaign ahead of its launch. 

Following the success of Burberry’s ‘My Burberry’ campaign featuring Kate and Cara, hot power duos seem to be a thing at the moment, all with one common thread: Miss Cara Delevingne.

The next internet-breaking fashion project soon to clog Instagram feeds world-wide is Chanel’s upcoming Paris-Salzburg 2014/15 Métiers d’Art campaign.

Karl Lagerfeld has paired the star supermodel with musical mastermind Pharrell Williams to create a concoction of Renaissance history, art, music and fashion in the form of an incredibly chic short. But does it work?

It seems to be a match made in heaven. The film is a revival of a fashion fairytale- a theme that is massively influential in regards to the fashion direction.

‘Reincarnation’ celebrates the story of Gabrielle Chanel (played by Geraldine Chaplin) vacationing in Salzburg and meeting a young lobby boy whose uniform jacket went on to inspire the classic Chanel jacket design.

The wardrobe choices seem suited to the fairytale concept and bring a sort of ‘tis the season’ vibe. It also reinforces Chanel’s iconic fascination with nostalgia and renewed retrospective. In the short teaser clip, the twosome are costumed in 17th century garments with Cara fastened neatly into a corset and Pharrell in a ‘reincarnation’ of the inspirational liftboy jacket.

I do understand that a strong opinion can hardly be formed on the teaser alone, however; perhaps the fashion element of the film will be lost behind costume and musical theatre. Fashion and fairytale have always been closely associated and a campaign like this runs the risk of being cliché and well, tacky.

Let’s hope that the full-length feature reveals something ingenious and inventive rather than become a Chanel take of a John Lewis Christmas add.

Not only is this a fashion campaign but the film is also a musical platform for Cara and Pharrell to debut their own single ‘CC The World’ written by Pharrell, himself, exclusively for Chanel. The 40-second clip offers a small prevue of the song, in which Cara also contributes with vocals. From what we are given, the song seems catchy and current whilst it plays on traditional waltz timing. It sounds perfectly with the imagery of the couple twirling in circles against the magical, Renaissance-inspired backdrop.

It is also refreshing to know that even the highest of acclaimed models, like Cara, also dream of broadening their careers into different branches of the creative industry. (Let’s just hope she can sing.) Again the musical aspect, much like the fashion, seems to be cool and definitely works for a 40-second clip. However, maybe with both parties singing and actually lip-syncing with the music whilst dressed in full costume, the line between quirky short fashion film and jazzy musical theatre clip may become blurred.

Probably intentionally, after viewing the teaser and leaked images, we are still left with mystery and wonder over what to expect from the full unveiling of the new campaign. It is exciting and magical even though Karl has gambolled with some risky themes. Can models, music, theatre and fashion all come together in perfect harmony? I guess we will just have to wait until December 1st to see.

Masterful Menus..Playful, Yet Luxurious: M Is the City’s Latest Hot Spot

M INTERIOR 1This winter will see the arrival of a unique dining and drinking concept in the heart of the City of London. Located in a vast and impressive venue, ‘M’ will house two restaurants, a wine-tasting bar, a destination cocktail bar, private dining rooms, event spaces and a secret den.

Situated on the iconic Threadneedle Street, home to the Bank of England, M will be an innovative and versatile 15,000 square foot space. M will be the first solo project from Martin Williams, who left his role as Managing Director of Gaucho Restaurants earlier this year after almost a decade with the company, to establish his own restaurant group.

From the moment they enter M, guests will be struck by the sheer scale of M and its unique and vibrant design, created by award- winning interiors expert, René Dekker Design Team, well known for designing some of the most beautiful homes around the world. Playful yet luxurious, M will be a happy union of energy and fun with an undertone of sophistication. The cool blues and ebony tones of the Grill restaurant will blend seamlessly with the greys and rich reds of the Raw bar and the copper, charcoal and gold hues of the mezzanine bar.

The venue has been created for the discerning diner with original, contemporary artwork displayed in key locations, alongside cutting edge furniture by Style Matters and lighting by Martin Eden and CTO. Other design features will include; walls finished in faux eel skin, gilded textured polished plaster from DKT, a distressed concrete effect floor and bespoke partition screens, all combing to ensure a truly breathtaking interior.

M will house two 100-cover restaurants, each offering a different style of cuisine and presided over by Executive Chef, Michael Reid who is Head Chef at Jardin Tan (part of the iconic Australian Vue de Monde Group) right hand man to Australia’s ‘Rock Star Chef’ Shannon Bennett, and formerly Executive Chef of Gaucho Restaurants. Mike has teamed up with Head Chef Jarad McCarroll, formerly of Chiltern Firehouse, to create masterful menus for both dining concepts.

RAW will feature a Tartare and Tiradito bar, a casual dining concept featuring brightly coloured seating, sharing tables and high stools. The bar will serve up a mouthwatering selection of tartares, sashimi, pulsing salads, cured and smoked dishes and yakitori. Signatures dishes will include: Scallops and Bacon made with Scallop Tartare, Apple Jelly and Bacon Crumble, Black Sugar Cured Salmon and Onglet Steak cooked at guests’ tables over salt stones. Breakfast will be served in RAW from 7am each morning and will feature breakfast classics alongside healthy ‘brain breakfasts’ and juice. M INTERIOR 2

M will also house an international grill restaurant specialising in the finest steak cuts from around the world, with the meat served being of the highest grade in London. GRILL will offer a single cut from six selected countries ranging from £25 to £139 in price including Wagyu from both Japan and Australia alongside exotic meats such as crocodile and kangaroo. The grill area will include a walk-in aging room where butchers will be available for each service, offering beef master classes and allowing guests the opportunity to order their preferred cut and size of steak from them directly. The luxurious space will feature sunken carpets, deep booths and wing back chairs upholstered in Savile Row fabrics such as Prince of Wales check and cobalt blue leather.

Curated by Lance Perkins, the acclaimed Bar & Beverage Director of the award-winning London Edition Hotel, M BAR will breathe new life into The City’s bar scene. Situated on a mezzanine level, the bar will have a warm and modern air and will feature a sweeping fireplace, distressed ceiling, oak floors and Slim Aarons artwork. Guests can choose from an eclectic cocktail menu and street food-inspired light bites whilst enjoying live music and DJ’s playing in the dedicated stage area, gradually building in tempo throughout the evening to create a high octane vibe.

There will also be a dedicated wine room, where Enoteca machines will offer a range of the world’s highest quality and rare wines to taste from taps. Wines such as Opus One and Petrus, which are normally out of drinkers’ reach, will be available at an affordable £25 and £45 per tasting glass. For those seeking a more intimate setting, M DEN will offer the perfect ‘secret’ bar with vistors will enjoying personal bottle lockers, table football, a humidor, a 32-inch television screen, also doubling as a mirror, and a variety of Bang & Olufsen gadgets. M will also house four private dining and event spaces for parties of eight to fifty.

Martin left Gaucho Group with fourteen restaurants in the UK and one restaurant in Dubai in March and created many brand building events including the ‘Gaucho International Polo’ the world’s most popular indoor Polo International, and the ‘Argentine Winemaker’s Awards’. For M he has assembled an impressive team around him with other notable appointments including Restaurant Director Francesco Cappucci (formerly of Corinthia Hotel and Cecconi’s) and staff uniforms deigned by Nelson Mandela’s favourite designer, Bunmi Olaye.

The Threadneedle Walk site will be the first of four initial venues, and Martin has also secured future M venues in several futuristic developments, tipped to become iconic features of the London skyline, which are under construction but undisclosed. Martin sums up the project perfectly:

“We have brought together the finest talent in the industry who are like-minded in a passion for hospitality and a determination to create ground-breaking experiences for our guests, coupled with the finest food and beverage ingredients at an accessible price point.”

M
2-3 Threadneedle Walk
60 Threadneedle Street
London
EC2 8HP

W: www.mrestaurants.co.uk
TEL: 020 3327 7770
T: @mrestaurants_

The After Nyne November Music Edit

We’ve got such a fabulous selection this month that we can’t wait to share it with you.

November has seen the release of After Nyne Magazine 5 – The Art Issue. If you haven’t seen it yet, do take a look right here at afternyne.com.

Right, on with our edit. Enjoy.

Screen Shot 2014-11-27 at 14.56.10Angels & Airwaves – ‘The Wolfpack’ 

Frontman/guitarist  Tom DeLonge explains the concept behind the single:

“The Wolfpack’ is the first single from our upcoming album. The song is a bit of a journey in and out of the many teeth of the music business — an industry that can be a sexy girl on one hand, but a vicious axe murderer on the other.”

“Each piece of this project, whether it’s the novel, the feature film, or the album, is meant to stand on its own individually, as well within the entirety of its parts. It’s an art project with many paths to adventure. I felt it was time to try a bit harder and create something that was more than just an album, and it’s ironic that this album might actually be my best.”

New album The Dreamwalker (scheduled for release Dec 9th)  follows the band’s last two albums, Love (2010) and Love: Part Two (2011) and its companion film, Love, which investigated the psychological effects of isolation when an astronaut stranded in space learns the importance of human connection and love. The critically acclaimed movie was screened at festivals around the world.

http://www.angelsandairwaves.com

 

Jenny Gillespie – ‘Holi’

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Taking inspiration from the likes of The Books and Ela Orlean, and likened to names such as Cocteau Twins and Tori Amos, Jenny began recording sounds she found in her hometown of Chicago on her iPhone, including snippets of conversations and arguments. Experimenting with various apps, to create beats and vocals around the noises she’d recorded,  the album ‘Chamma’ (out now on Narooma Records) was born.

Bursting with thoughtful melodies and elegant structures, full of purpose and organic shimmer, this at times melancholic record is familiar in parts, but is also spontaneous and original throughout. ‘Chamma’ has been receiving some great coverage from the likes of R2, Mojo, Drowned In Sound, and Coke Machine Glow.

http://jennygillespie.com

 

Screen Shot 2014-11-27 at 15.04.47

Zaphonic – ‘Divorce Your Thoughts’

Zaphonic, North London based rockers with a distinct sound that merges elements of British Rock, Dub and Futuristic Hip Hop release their eponymous double A&B side Singles ‘Rorrim’ & ‘Divorce Your Thoughts’ simultaneously in the UK and US on December 2, 2014. The bands debut album ‘Pathogenesis’ is scheduled for release in February 2015.  

Front-man 26 year old Michael Gabriel from North Finchley, London, formerly known as British rapper ‘Too Much’ is no stranger to the U.S hip hop scene, back in 2005 he was the first and only UK Rapper to gain genuine status and kudos battling in the New York Fight Club Scene, impressing with his lyrical invention and eschewing tired tropes usually associated with UK rappers.

His skills immediately won him plaudits from the likes of Hip Hop lyricists Cassidy and Dancehall legend Beanie Man. Since then Michael has spent his time writing and producing for other artists including DJ Whoo Kid and his mentor Mario Winans before developing the eclectic new Zaphonic sound.

http://zaphonic.com

 

Sylvie Simmons – ‘You Are In My Arms’

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‘Sylvie’ is haunting and out-of-time, but it is also a brand-new, original debut album by a singer-writer who has been making music since she was a little girl but just for herself. The raw, delicate, and sensual songs about love and love gone wrong are performed on a ukulele, which here sounds like a broken harp or a heartbroken guitar.

Born in London, Simmons had felt the pull of America since childhood and ran away to LA in the late seventies to write about music, convinced she’d never have the nerve to perform it. She became renowned as a rock writer (she’s the subject of a BBC documentary, The Rock Chick) and also as an acclaimed author.

Her books include the cult fiction Too Weird For Ziggy and biographies Serge Gainsbourg: A Fistful of Gitanes and I’m Your Man: The Life of Leonard Cohen. Following numerous movements across the globe-including three years in a tumbledown French chateau- she now lives in San Francisco and will visit the UK to promote her Cohen book, her album and for these following live dates:

30 November – London – Come And Meet The Folks
2 December – London – 12 Bar

http://sylviesimmons.com

 

Screen Shot 2014-11-27 at 15.15.22

Twin Hidden – ‘Join Hands’

A brand new track from the Brit two piece which has gained significant interest since it premiered on Stereogum at the beginning of the month.

It’s been said it fits somewhere between Shearwater, tUnE-yArDs and Everything Everything. Interesting, leftfield indie-pop with a strong hook.

http://www.twinhidden.com

 

As always, we love to hear your thoughts on our monthly selection. Tweet us at @AfterNyneHQ

Fashion & Science Luminaries Congratulate Helen Storey on Royal Society of Arts Accolade

Helen Storey portrait by John Ross

Helen Storey portrait by John Ross

Today, Helen Storey, Professor of Fashion and Science at the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at London College of Fashion will be bestowed the honour of Royal Designer for Industry by the Royal Society of Arts.

This hugely respected accolade, held by just 200 British designers, is given in recognition of her incredible contribution to design and society.

To celebrate this wonderful achievement LCF commissioned a short film which features highlights from Helen’s career bringing together the worlds of fashion, science and sustainability in extraordinary ways.

The LCF  were absolutely overwhelmed by messages of congratulations from luminaries in the fashion and science worlds, all of which feature in the film – including Head of London College of Fashion Professor Frances Corner OBE, model Erin O’Connor,  designer Zandra Rhodes; Caryn Franklin, Professor Tony Ryan OBE, Professor Frank Kelly and model Susie Bick – which portray the incredible impact Helen’s career has had on so many.

Click here to view the LCF film 

Marvin Live – Butterflies & Goldfish E.P. – Out Now – Free Download

Screen Shot 2014-11-26 at 16.22.40Hackney-born rapper Marvin Live has made his recent E.P. ‘Butterflies & Goldfish‘ available as a free download on his website www.marvinlive.co.uk 

Marvin has been working on this E.P. since returning from the US where he was offered a basketball scholarship to Eastern Wyoming College. After 5 years pursuing one of his first loves it was time to return to his other devotion…music.

The music that Marvin assimilated during his time in the US constantly informs his own work, fusing with those London grime roots to create something completely unique. Marvin describes his sound as “smooth, feel-good rap”, but at the same time he endeavours to “stay away from what everybody else is doing and saying”. 
Marvin has had support from MTV, Respect Mag, SBTV, Mobo, Stupid DOPE and I Luv Live, to name a few. 
The video of lead track ‘Studio Games’ – a former After Nyne #TrackWeLove – ​was premiered on SBTV and can be found here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUWHQwbrvUc 

New Museum Announces Participating Artists in the 2015 Triennial

Screen Shot 2014-11-26 at 15.05.48New York City’s New Museum has announced the list of participating artists in the 2015 New Museum Triennial, the only recurring museum exhibition in New York devoted to presenting works by early-career artists from around the world.

The Triennial provides an important platform for an emergent generation of artists that is shaping the discourse of contemporary art.

This third iteration of the Triennial is titled “Surround Audience” and is co-curated by New Museum Curator Lauren Cornell and artist Ryan Trecartin. The building-wide exhibition will be on view from February 25 to May 24, 2015. It will feature fifty-one artists and artist collectives from over twenty-five countries; for many of the participants, this will be their first inclusion in a museum exhibition in the United States.

Cornell and Trecartin have worked together for nearly a decade and they each bring a shared passion for probing the social and psychological effects of digital technology. For Cornell, “Surround Audience” is inspired in part by Trecartin’s own artistic practice, which, as she describes, “vividly manifests a world in which the effects of technology and late capitalism have been absorbed into our bodies and altered our vision of the world.” A tension between the newfound freedoms and threats of today’s society animates and anchors “Surround Audience.”

See the list of participating artists below and here.

The exhibition encompasses a variety of artistic practices, including sound, dance, comedy, poetry, installation, sculpture, painting, video, and one online talk show. If there is any aesthetic link between these diverse works it is in their energetic mutability of form. Together, these works speak to a newfound elasticity in our understanding of what mediums constitute contemporary art. Here, paintings evolve out of 3-D models, digital images erupt into sculpture, and sound becomes action. This is a group of works that attests to how form is continuously converted across word, image, and medium.

In conjunction with the exhibition, the New Museum will publish a book of poetry, researched and edited by Droitcour. Featuring works by around seventy contributors, including Cathy Park Hong, Dodie Bellamy, Jenny Zhang, Mónica de la Torre, and Bhanu Kapil, with original translations and texts by Triennial artists all interwoven with transcriptions of social media statuses of many varieties, The Animated Reader: Poetry of Surround Audience offers an expansion of the Triennial’s themes in the medium of poetry.

The New Museum Triennial was initiated in 2009. The first edition, “Younger Than Jesus,” was organized by Massimiliano Gioni, Laura Hoptman, and Lauren Cornell. The second Triennial, “The Ungovernables,” was organized by Eungie Joo in 2012.

The 2015 Triennial was organized by Lauren Cornell, Curator, 2015 Triennial, Museum as Hub, and Digital Projects, and artist Ryan Trecartin, with Sara O’Keeffe, Assistant Curator. The catalogue was overseen by Helga Christoffersen, Assistant Curator.

Major support is provided by the Friends of the Generational Triennial. The exhibition is also made possible by grants from the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts and the Jacques and Natasha Gelman Foundation.

The full slate of public programs organized in conjunction with the Triennial will be announced in 2015.

New Museum
235 Bowery
New York, NY 10002
212.219.1222

http://www.newmuseum.org